GLY 4734 Why is the coast important to

GLY 4734 Why is the coast important to

GLY 4734 Why is the coast important to study? Societal Reasons Hazard/Event-based Reasons Geologic Reasons Societal Reasons - Coastal Population

30 coastal states contain 62% of US population and 12/13 largest cities 53% of US pop. lives w/in 50 miles of the shore (83% in Australia) in 1973: 440,000 km of global coastline / 3.3 billion humans = 13 cm each today: 440,000 km of global coastline / 6.7 billion humans = 6.5 cm each Societal Reasons Coastal Development Development along our coastlines continues to expand

Sand Key, FL Societal Reasons Coastal Infrastructure Populations Pressures Transportation Safety Infrastructure

Alsea Bay, Waldport, OR - Photo credit: Paul Kom Societal Reasons - Agricultural Example: Nile Delta Concept of dynamic equilibrium Construction of Aswan Dam has shut off sediment supply Result: rapid coastal recession

rates = 50-100 m/yr Coastal Hazards - Hurricanes Hazards/Climate Reasons Example: Hurricanes Ivan and Katrina LIDAR data - newish technology Dauphine Island, Alabama

Hazards/Climate Reasons Landform changes caused by the storm events LIDAR surveys - Dauphine Island, Gulf Coast of Alabama Hazards/Climate Reasons - Sea Level Rise Gainesville

Hazards/Climate Reasons - Sea Cliff Retreat Examples Biota, Habitat, Ecological Reasons Lithologic Response Wave Energy Imparted to Coast

Uplift Sea Level Change Beaches Wave Transformation Offshore Wave Climate

Geologic Reasons Generation of Stratigraphy Lithologic Response Wave Energy Imparted to Coast Uplift

Sea Level Change Beaches Wave Transformation Offshore Wave Climate History of Science of Coastal Geomorphology

Greeks (Herodotus) and the Nile 'delta' da Vinci and the Pontine Marshes in Italy - 15th century Lithologic Response Captain Cook's voyages shed light on many coastal reaches worldwide Uplift

Early geologists (Hutton, Lyell) recognized the coast as a modern depositional environment responsible for sedimentary rock generation. Wave Energy Imparted to Coast Sea Level Change

Early geomorphologists (de Beaumont, Huxley) identified the link between process and form along the coast. Darwin theorized on the origins and evolution of reefs and atolls. Beaches Even Grove Karl Gilbert interpreted abandoned terraces in Utah to testify to the presence of Pleistocene lakes in the western U.S. Early 20th century: Douglas Johnson's application of William Morris Davis's "geographical cycle" -New England coast

World War II andWave in theTransformation Cold War era which followed - scientists at Scripps Institution of Oceanography (Sverdrup, Munk, Shepard, and Inman) Offshore Wave Climate In-Class Exercise

Name and where are you from? What coast are you most familiar with or are you currently interested in? What are some issues there that grab your attention? During the semester, consider how each topic we cover affects your coast (i.e. tectonics, wave climate, sediment supply/local rivers, population/human infrastructure, hazard vulnerability). I'll start with an example...

South-Central Alaska

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